The Vysočina region full of life
Transkript
The Vysočina region full of life
The Vysočina region full of life Praha Jihlava Brno Chotěboř Ždírec nad Doubravkou Ledeč nad Sázavou Svratka SVĚTLÁ NAD SÁZAVOU Jimramov HAVLÍČKŮV BROD Přibyslav ŽĎÁR NAD SÁZAVOU HUMPOLEC Bystřice nad Pernštejnem HOW TO GET TO VYSOČINA Polná PACOV PELHŘIMOV JIHLAVA Černovice Velké Meziříčí Brtnice Kamenice nad Lipou Třešť Počátky TŘEBÍČ Náměšť nad Oslavou TELČ Hrotovice Jaroměřice nad Rokytkou MORAVSKÉ BUDĚJOVICE It couldn’t be simpler to get to Vysočina – just one of the many great features of this recreational destination. It only takes an hour and a half from Prague and an hour from Brno by car to reach the capital of the region, Jihlava. You will find a wide range of travel information at the following website: www.region-vysocina.cz 4 5 THE MAGIC OF NATURE A symphony of forests and ponds The Vysočina region sits in the very heart of Europe on the border of Bohemia and Moravia. Visitors to the area particularly appreciate the untouched natural beauty and unforgettable scenery of the Bohemian and Moravian Highlands (Českomoravská vrchovina) that make up the majority of the region. The wooded hills of Vysočina recede into flowering meadows, while expansive valleys with romantic rock formations are interwoven with roads and paths that are themselves lined by full-grown avenues of trees. Ponds have been a part of Vysočina since ancient times, the oldest being created back in the 13th century. There were also a great many dams here in the past, many being used as reservoirs for drinking water. Some also became popular places for recreation. Vysočina is part of what is known as the rooftop of Europe and over one hundred kilometres of the main European dividing line between the Black Sea and the North Sea run through the region. Vysočina is also where a number of rivers spring, rivers that form a dense network of waterways throughout the landscape. Many corners of Vysočina have been declared protected zones for their natural and cultural wealth. One of the most prominent of these protected zones is „CHKO Žďárské vrchy“, whose rock formations, forest remains and rare species of moorland plants combine to make it one of the jewels in the region’s crown. Other sites of unique scenery can be discovered elsewhere. The valley of the River Doubrava, for example, is a rare experience indeed. The course of the river is lined by granite rocks that rise as high as 60 metres, as the river itself winds through a series of bizarre rapids and waterfalls. By contrast, the Mohelno Serpentine Steppe (Mohelenská hadcová step) will enchant you with its unique fauna and flora, which are influenced by the serpentine subsoil of the local area. The presence of this rock guarantees ideal conditions for rare species of plants, ferns and dwarf trees. If, however, you are more inclined towards walking and hiking to the heights, you should certainly be sure not to miss the highest peaks of the region - Javořice (837 m) and Devět skal (836 m). Of course this is just the tip of the iceberg in terms of what the local countryside has to offer. The magic of pure nature, the power of fresh air and the unique peace and quiet of the deep forests are qualities being discovered by more and more tourists every year, people that come to Vysočina to relax and recharge the batteries before returning to the hustle and bustle of everyday life. 6 7 HISTORIC TOWNS AND CITIES The heritage of the past The finishing touches to the picturesque landscape of Vysočina were added by our forefathers and mothers over many hundreds of years; it was they who created trade routes in the deep forests along both sides of the border between Bohemia and Moravia and who built fortresses to protect them. Later still they built many historic monuments, structures that are very highly valued to this day. They dealt with drying out the sodden land and went on to mine silver, setting up villages and towns that to this day show their one-time fame and importance and whose history stretches back to the beginning of the 13th century. Many renowned architects, sculptors and painters contributed to the development and beautification of the towns, and not just in the times of plenty and wealth - after times of destructive wars as well. Their architectural gems you can admire to this day. The years of prosperity were obviously interwoven with years of poverty and decline. The regional capital of Jihlava was one of the wealthiest and most powerful towns in the Kingdom of Bohemia during the Middle Ages thanks to the discovery of silver here. Mighty fortifications took care of the safety of Jihlava, most of which remain standing to this day, as does the multi-level labyrinth of underground passageways that linked medieval cellars on the square. Pelhřimov took on its Baroque appearance in the 18th century when the historic heart of the town was built following a destructive fire. It is surrounded by the town fortifications and their two gateways. Here you will also find a number of well-preserved medieval burgher houses. Havlíčkův Brod was founded on an important trade route, as was Jihlava. The Baroque square of the town is home to gabled houses, while a stone fountain stands in the middle. There are towns here with their roots in the distant past, towns where you will find fabulous burgher houses, monumental religious structures or stone bridges. Archaeological finds, written records, museum exhibits and collections of art all testify to the rich history of the region. 8 9 A TOUR OF OUR CASTLES A return to the Middle Ages The atmosphere of the Middle Ages comes alive at the castles and ruins in the area with the help of a number of summer festivals full of magicians, swordsmen and musicians. The courtyard of the castle in Lipnice nad Sázavou, for example, plays host to summer concerts, theatre performances and demonstrations by sword-fighting groups. The castle tower, meanwhile, offers views that reach up to 70 km in distance. A tour of the castle includes a visit to the armoury and a display of Gothic tiled stoves, a tour of the Chapel of St. Lawrence (kaple sv. Vavřince) and of the expansive cellar area, with its original medieval well. Roštejn, originally a Gothic fortification that was later transformed into a Renaissance hunting lodge, is now used to display a collection of porcelain and tin items, period furniture and weapons. The castle livens up during the summer with its scary night-time tours. Medieval sword-fighting contests also help you experience the true castle atmosphere that prevailed here, taking you a couple of hundred years into the past. Hundreds of people are attracted to the local medieval market at the castle ruins of Orlík nad Humpolcem in July every year. A medieval oven was discovered in the former castle kitchen here and reconstructed, meaning that you are able to bake your own, hand-prepared bread or try out your pottery skills. The castle in Ledeč nad Sázavou is home to a museum with exhibits that relate the history of the town and describe the lives of the local craftsmen. There is also an extensive collection of coins, clocks and paintings. Then, during the summer, the courtyard becomes a stage for occasional concerts or theatre performances. Kámen castle, whose displays of old furniture allow you to take a look at life in the castle in the 2nd half of the 19th century, rises from centre of a dominant and expansive rock garden. One extremely popular attraction for visitors to the castle is a display of unique, historical two-wheeled vehicles, the most valuable of which is perhaps a motorcycle made by Laurin and Klement in 1898. 10 11 VISITING CHATEAUX AND MONASTERIES A pilgrimage to the past Tours given by guides in period costume, theatre performances and mysterious nighttime tours of chateaux are all at hand to provide you with something new and to bring you that bit closer to history in a lessthan-traditional way. The Renaissance chateau in Náměšť nad Oslavou is home to a unique collection of wall tapestries that date back to the 16th to 19th centuries. The chateau library, with its stucco and fresco decoration and its 16 thousand volumes, including the Bible of Kralice, will leave you spellbound. The Baroque chateau in Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou, which is surrounded by an expansive French / English type garden, is still home to its original interior, with valuable furniture and many collections. The historical exhibits tell of the musical tradition here, something that lends itself to the staging of concerts and the annual International Peter Dvorský Music Festival. Žirovnice chateau houses unique museum collections that document the history of the mother-of-pearl industry: the town here found fame in the middle of the 19th century thanks to the hand production of mother-of-pearl buttons. You can also see a valuable collection of earlyGothic wall paintings at the chateau. The chateau complex in Polná, meanwhile, is an example of the diversity of architectural styles – the Gothic castle palace, rooms decorated with Renaissance paintings and the Baroque farm buildings. The exhibits will introduce you to period crafts, with the use of stone, a collection of old clocks and a historical dispensary. The chateau courtyard often stages concerts. Other former estates also testify to the wealth of the local aristocracy: learn about the lost crafts that were typical of the countryside and the towns in Moravské Budějovice; fire-fighting technology enthusiasts come into their own with the exhibits in Přibyslav; the exhibition at the chateau in Velké Meziříčí tells of the history of bridges and roadways in the Czech Republic; Kamenice nad Lipou is home to part of the rich collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague; and the chateau in Nové Město na Moravě houses a gallery with an exhibition of Classicist sculpture. Monasteries were once among the most prominent centres of culture and art and one of the oldest is the Premonstratensian monastery in Želiv. The complex of buildings here is one of the most valuable works of art in Bohemia. You can also admire (among other) the Baroque wall frescos and artistically valuable contents of the Premonstratensian monastery in Nová Říše. 12 UNESCO SITES Žďár nad Sázavou There are currently twelve sites in the Czech Republic entered in the UNESCO Register of World Cultural and Natural Heritage. Three of these are found in the Vysočina region. They form an imaginary triangle and can easily all be visited in the course of a single weekend given that the distance between them is around 40 km. The Church of St. John of Nepomuk (kostel sv. Jana Nepomuckého) at Zelená hořa in Žďár nad Sázavou was created according to the designs of renowned architect Jan Santini – Aichel and is to this day one of the most distinctive Baroque buildings in Europe. The project was entrusted to Santini by the abbot of the nearby Cistercian monastery, a great admirer of St. John of Nepomuk. The church was consecrated in September 1722 and is considered the summit of Santini’s work. The ground plan is set out in the shape of a five-pointed star, something that appears in the legend surrounding the violent death of John of Nepomuk. The symbolism of the number five is seen elsewhere throughout the building.There are five altars inside, five corridors, five stars and five angels on the main altar and the whole church is entirely surrounded by cloisters with a quintuple of gateways and chapels. The originality of Santini’s Baroque Gothic led to the church being listed as a UNESCO world cultural and natural heritage site in 1994, the first standalone religious building in the Czech Republic to receive such an honour.The nearby Cistercian monastery was transformed into a chateau in the 18th century and here you will now find an exhibition documenting Santini’s work, an exhibition dedicated to historical pianos and a Museum of Books, which maps out the development of books and book printing in Europe. www.zelena-hora.eu UNESCO SITES Telč The town of Telč, which is rightly considered one of the most beautiful towns in the Czech Republic, is characterised by its triangular main square, which is lined by burgher houses with Renaissance gables and Gothic arcade vaulting. The finishing touches to the unique appearance of the town are provided by its two preserved gateways, Baroque fountains and statues. The chateau and the square combine to form an architectural whole of immense value, resulting in entry in the UNESCO Register of World Cultural and Heritage Sites in 1992. The original Gothic castle, which was converted into a grandiose Renaissance chateau in the second half of the 16th century, is one of the best preserved architectural complexes in the Czech Republic. Of particular value is the interior, where you will find wooden coffered ceilings, period furniture, a collection of historical weapons and collections of art. The chateau’s courtyard and historical halls are popular places for artistic performances. The complex is surrounded by a park, whilst one wing houses a museum documenting the history of the town and the development of different crafts and trades. www.telc.eu 13 14 15 PAMÁTKY UNESCO Třebíč The third place in Vysočina with the honour of being registered as a UNESCO site (since July 2003) is the Romanesque-Gothic Basilica of St. Procopius in Třebíč, together with the Jewish quarter and the Jewish cemetery. The Basilica is a national treasure of medieval architecture. Construction work on the church, which was originally consecrated to the Virgin Mary, began in the first half of the 13th century as part of a Benedictine monastery that had been founded here in 1101. The building suffered considerable damage during different wars that broke out in the Czech lands during the 15th century and was used for more than two hundred years as a stable, granary or brew house. However, it was again used as a religious building and consecrated to St. Procopius between 1725 and 1731. The most highlyvalued parts of the basilica include its crypt, the vaulting of the choir, the wheel-window and the stone entranceway. The current appearance of the interior dates back to 1924 – 1935. Close to the church is a former monastery, which was converted into a chateau in the 16th century and which is now home to a museum featuring collections that map out the development of the town and the history of traditional local nativity scenes. The unique Jewish quarter in the town was built in the Middle Ages on a relatively thin strip of land and is surrounded by a high slope on one side and the river on the other. The dense concentration of buildings conceals all elements typical of Jewish architecture, such as winding lanes, houses almost one on top of the other, vaulted passageways and staircases carved into the rock. The run-down complex was at one time threatened with redevelopment, but was saved at the beginning of the Nineties by a more positive perspective on the unique nature of the site, since when it has been returned its original appearance. Over time the area has seen the construction of apartments, a number of restaurants, wine bars and galleries. However, the absolute climax of a visit to the Jewish quarter is the duo of synagogues. The front synagogue, which was built in the middle of the 17th century, is now used as a place of worship by the Czechoslovak Hussite Church. The rear synagogue was built at the end of the 17th century in the Renaissance-Baroque style. Its wall paintings and their ornamental and floral patterns have been restored along with the liturgical texts in Hebrew. The synagogue was opened to the public in 1997 following extensive restoration work and is now used to stage exhibitions and concerts.he expansive Jewish cemetery holds almost 3000 graves, the oldest of which dates back to 1625. This serves as evidence of the century-long existence of a Jewish community in Třebíč. www.mkstrebic.cz 16 17 MONUMENTS TO JEWISH SETTLEMENT In many places in Vysočina will you come across monuments to Jewish settlement in the area, be it individual buildings, town quarters or synagogues. Great attention has been paid to the reconstruction of these in a number of towns and even though the synagogues no longer serve their original purpose, they are open to the public to stage exhibitions and concerts. However, the insensitive approach of past decades means that in some places the only monument to remain is a Jewish cemetery. One of the oldest and most prominent hubs of Jewish life was found in Třebíč. The complex here is made up of a unique, wellpreserved Jewish quarter with 123 buildings and two synagogues and an expansive Jewish cemetery. This exceptionally valuable whole, a rare, well-preserved medieval ghetto, has been maintained and revived, a place to which the ancient genius loci left behind by several generations of local Jews is slowly returning. The Jewish quarter in Třešť is home to 86 buildings and a synagogue built in the Empire style, the only of its kind in the Czech Republic with a pillared arcade. The local Jewish cemetery is enclosed by a stone wall and is home to valuable Baroque and Classicist gravestones. The Jewish quarter in Polná was built in the second half of the 17th century and holds some 32 buildings, predominantly single storey. It has two parts – the original town, with its triangular ground plan, and the lower square – the so-called Rabbi’s Square (Rabínův plácek). The Regional Jewish Museum is housed in the synagogue, while the Jewish cemetery on the edge of the town dates back to the 16th century. A Jewish quarter was established on the banks of the River Oslava in Velké Meziříčí during the 15th century. Sixty-three of the original 101 buildings remain, many of them featuring imposing architectural details. The restored former synagogue is now home to a museum concentrating on local Jewish history. The reconstructed synagogue in Golčův Jeníkov was built in 1873 and is currently used as the depositary of the Jewish Museum in Prague. The Jewish cemetery in Ledeč nad Sázavou is one of the oldest in Bohemia. Here too will you find a reconstructed synagogue, which is used for exhibitions and concerts. ON THE TRAIL OF THE FAMOUS 18 The Vysočina region is the birthplace of many prominent personalities, people to have found fame in a wide variety of aspects of human life. A number of famous painters, architects, writers and scientists have been born in Vysočina and have remained linked to the local area throughout their lives. Others discovered Vysočina on their travels and kept returning to the area, inspired again and again by the picturesque Vysočina landscape. Without doubt the most prominent person in the world of music is Gustav Mahler. You can visit the birth house of this world-renowned conductor and composer in the small village of Kaliště u Humpolce. The house in which the young Gustav Mahler later lived with his family is found in Jihlava and is home to a permanent exhibition dedicated to the family of Gustav Mahler, his life and his work. Gustav Mahler’s relationship with the Vysočina region is also described in a permanent exhibition at the museum in Humpolec and a music festival dedicated to the man is one of the most prominent musical events in the region. Another outstanding composer and violinist of world renown is Jan Václav Stamic, whose birth home is found on the square in Havlíčkův Brod. The Stamic Festival is staged every year to commemorate the importance of Stamic and his work. A number of authors are associated with the Vysočina region. Karel Havlíček Borovský, Czech poet, publicist and founder of Czech journalism and literary critique, is closely linked to the village where he was born in 1821. After all, it gave him his name and he gave it his. He was born in the village of Borová, which now takes the title of Havlíčkova Borová in honour of its famous son. Karel Havlíček, meantime, began signing his works as Borovský („of Borová“). The birth home of Karel Havlíček Borovský is now a national cultural monument and holds an exhibition commemorating the life and work of the man. Hašek Memorial“, which has been created in his home, by the writer’s grave in the old cemetery and by a statue by the memorial beneath the castle staircase. The picturesque little town of Jimramov is the birthplace of three prominent writers. Commemorative plaques have been placed on the birth homes of brothers Vilém and Alois Mrštíkový and Jan Karafiát. Few people know that the fate of the Good Soldier Švejk was sealed in a small house beneath the majestic castle in Lipnice. However, it was here that globe-trotter Jaroslav Hašek settled towards the end of his life and here that he wrote the book that brought him fame at home and abroad. The life and work of the writer in Lipnice are now commemorated by the “Jaroslav Another person to leave an indelible mark on Vysočina is Otokar Březina, real name Václav Jebavý, a renowned Czech poet. He was born in Počátky and died in Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou, where he is buried in the local cemetery. A statuary created by famous sculptor and Březina’s friend František Bílek entitled Creator and his Sister Pain stands on his grave. Poets Jakub Deml and Antonín Sova also found inspiration for their work in Vysočina. Only a few dedicated people know that the creator of the Japanese economic miracle, Josef Alois Schumpeter, prominent economist, scientist and lawyer, was born in a burgher house in the town of Třešť. Today the building houses a museum, with one of the exhibitions commemorating the life and work of this famous son. Another monument relating to the Schumpeter family is found at the local cemetery, the pseudoRenaissance Schumpeter-Kilián family tomb. Visit the town of Brtnice, birthplace of renowned architect Josef Hoffmann, to see a permanent exhibition entitled “Timeless design” in the home of his birth. The aim of the exhibition is to show visitors items made to this day by leading Austrian companies precisely in line with Hoffmann’s original designs and thus point to their timelessness. Nové Město na Moravě came to prominence thanks to its famous sons, learned sculptors Vincenc Makovský and Jana Štursa. You can see several of their creations throughout the town. Learned painter, graphic artist, illustrator and scenographer Jan Zrzavý captured his native Vysočina on canvas. You can visit an exhibition about his life and work in the Memorial Hall at Krucemburk. Zrzavý is buried in the local cemetery. 19 20 21 AN ACTIVE HOLIDAY Experience adventure and adrenalin Vysočina is an ideal place for active relaxation. The countryside is interwoven with hundreds of kilometres of hiking trails (2700 km), with nature trails providing a bit of fun and education along the way. Meanwhile, countless regional cycling tracks (2200 km) are linked up to their longdistance counterparts. You can also enjoy the beauty of the local countryside on horseback (850 km of horse-riding trails). Swimming in natural outdoor pools can be alternated with a dip in an indoor pool or a water park. The big ponds here are ideal for yachters and windsurfing enthusiasts and the reservoirs practically made for water sports and fishing. There is also plenty of space for tennis courts, golf courses, sports centres, ice rinks, rope centres and other sporting complexes. Lovers of winter sports are sure to welcome the perfect conditions for cross-country skiing here. The most prominent ski centres are located in the north of the region, which in winter is transformed into a skiing paradise with hundreds of kilometres of cross-country trails for competitive and recreational skiers alike. There are more than 40 downhill centres here, mostly used by novices or families with children. For a true bit of active relaxation there is farm tourism, which gives you the chance to learn about domestic animals and involve yourself in the agricultural and farming work that is far removed from your normal life, or indeed inaccessible. The deep forests here, inviting for mushroom picking and long walks, are ideal for relaxation. In fact Vysočina has some form of active entertainment for absolutely everyone. LIVING TRADITIONS Traditional folklore and folk crafts 22 Vysočina bore witness to the development of many crafts and trades, the most famous from ancient times being silver mining. This era is commemorated to this day every second year by the Jihlava Miner’s Parade (Jihlavský havířský průvod), during which children dressed in period clothing commemorate the fame and hard labour of the miners. Without doubt the most important trade in Vysočina was cloth manufacture. However, the region’s glassmakers also won some renown. The skill and precision of the craftsmen of old are also seen in Christmas nativity scenes in Třešť and Třebíč which work to this day and which are remarkable for their size and the individual detail involved. The tradition of making nativity scenes in Vysočina dates back some two hundred years. It became one of the symbols of Christmas, particularly in towns with a welldeveloped tradition of hand production. Whereas nativity scenes made of paper and placed in moss on wooden legs were typical of the Třebíč area, in Třešť the figures were carved out of wood. Indeed there are still dozens of active amateur carvers in Třešť to this day. Their nativity scenes can be viewed in the local museum, the Schumpeter House. Around twenty nativity scenes are also put on display in private homes during the Christmas period, from Christmas Eve until Candlemas (2nd February). This enduring tradition of making nativity scenes becomes more and more popular every year, something seen in the number of visitors from the Czech Republic and abroad. Many crafts have only been preserved in the folk songs and dances that various folklore groups demonstrate with great success at home and abroad. However, some traditional customs remain to this day. For example, the residents of many villages celebrate a masquerade carnival (Mardi gras) every year, going round all the buildings in the village in masks to wish the modern-day householders another successful year. The arrival of spring, meanwhile, is celebrated by “burning witches” (sitting round a campfire with friends) and erecting maypoles. Summer tradition is upheld with fairs of traditional crafts and games. Photographs: Archiv Vysočina Tourism Published by Vysočina Tourism 2011 Graphic design, preprint preparation, print: 20 – 20 Vision Graphics European Union European Regional Development Fund Investing in Your Future This publication is part of a project being jointly financed by the European Union from the European Fund for Regional Development. Vysočina Tourism, příspěvková organizace (institution receiving contributions from the State Budget) www.vysocinatourism.cz E-mail: [email protected] www.region-vysocina.cz NOT FOR SALE.