South Bohemia - Lonely Planet
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South Bohemia - Lonely Planet
© Lonely Planet 142 South Bohemia For many travellers, the lakes, forests and fields of South Bohemia whiz by in a cinematic scroll outside the window of a Prague to Český Krumlov bus. And while the region’s pampered main attraction will definitely steal your heart, be ready to share your devotion with busloads of other camera-wielding suitors. Invest a couple of nights to stroll Český Krumlov’s medieval maze and canoe the meandering Vltava, but also find time to explore the rest of South Bohemia. SOUTH BOHEMIA In the forests of the Šumava mountains, hiking and mountain-biking tracks link pensions (guest houses) and alpine lodges where hush comes as standard. On Lake Lipno the beaches are thronged with summertime visitors, but just a ferry ride away the lake’s western shore is subdued and secluded, legacy of its past as a closed border zone during the Cold War. To the east, near the Austrian border, the melancholy serenity of Slavonice almost demands you whisper, and the town’s parade of Renaissance facades is really quite remarkable. After a few authentic Budweisers with the locals in České Budějovice’s raucous beer halls, bring centuries of history to life in chateaux like the delicate lakeside confection at Červená Lhota, or the spectacular twin fortresses of Zvíkov and Orlík. Get pleasantly lost amid the narrow lanes radiating from the photogenic main square of Tábor, the imposing bastion of the unyielding Hussites, or negotiate walking trails around the historic carp ponds and lakes surrounding Třeboň. Are you still thinking a hurried day trip to Český Krumlov is a good idea? HIGHLIGHTS Canoeing round the graceful arc of the Vltava River through Český Krumlov (p153), just maybe Central Europe’s prettiest town Bringing history to life in the former Hussite bastion of Tábor (p165) Orlík nad Vltavou Tábor Zvíkov Immersing yourself in the hushed Renais- sance perfection of Slavonice (p172) Catching a leisurely river boat between the spectacular castles at Orlík nad Vltavou (p164) and Zvíkov (p165) Imbibing the original Budweiser beer in České Budějovice (p148), an energetic blue-collar brewery town Àeské Budêjovice Àeský Krumlov Slavonice E49 va Blatná Mirotice To Prague Zvíkov CENTRAL BOHEMIA Tábor To Prague Chýnov 19 Kámen E65 Grosser Arber (1456m) Klatovy Š u ¤elezná Ruda Hojsova Stráz Nýrsko Úhla va Nepomuk m a v a Lenora GERMANY See South Šumava Map (p160) Švarcenberský kanál Plechý (1378m) Philippsreut 4 Husinec Àerná v Pošumaví Dolní Vltavice Àeský Krumlov ¤ofínský prales Protected Landscape Rybnik Region Weigetschlag Lipno nad Vltavou Wullowitz Vítkûv Kámen (1053m) Vyšši Horni Dvoåištê Brod Studánky Dolní Dvoåištê E49 Grametten Gmünd 0 0 Slavonice AUSTRIA E59 Jihlava Havlíàkûv Brod E49 SOUTH MORAVIA Daàice Telà Humpolec Fratres Pelhåimov Nová Byståice Neunagelberg Halámky Àeské Velenice Nepomuk Branná E551 Jindåichûv Hradec Àervená Lhota Ro¢mberk Tåeboñsko Protected Landscape Region Veseli nad Lu¢nici Sobêslav Tåeboñ E55 Trocnov Dobrá Voda Kaplice E55 Blanský Les Boršov nad Vltavou Protected Landscape Region Dívàí kámen Tåísov Kleì (1083m) Zlatá Koruna Rájov Holašovice Àeské Budêjovice Týn nad Vltavou Hluboká nad Vltavou Ohrada Sezimovo Ústí Bechynê 33 Milevsko Lake Lipno Frymburk Ro¢mberk nad Vltavou Horní Planá Šumava Protected Landscape Region Volary Temelín Cicenice Netolice Kratochvíle E49 Protivín Prachatice Strakonice Zvíkovské Podhradí Písek nad 4 Orlík Vltavou Slanik Keståany Boubín (1362m) Horní Vltavice Šumava National Park Vimperk Ota Strá¢ný Àeñkova Pila Sušice WEST BOHEMIA Vltava SOUTH BOHEMIA Švihov Orlík ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ To Plzeñ (14km) a tav Vl SOUTH BOHEMIA To Vienna (40km) To Znojmo To Tåebià 30 km 20 miles lonelyplanet.com S O U T H B O H E M I A 143